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How can I pick a perfect day in Napa Valley, when all of them
are? Entertaining my wine-novice relatives from the southeast?
Showing around a wine writer friend from Ireland? Entertaining
a lady friend from San Francisco? A newcomer to Napa, or an
old timer?
I think it's most fun to squire around someone who thinks
he (or she) knows Napa Valley. There are so many crevices
and niches that it's almost impossible to try them all. My
favorite two excursions are to Pope and Chiles Valleys in
Eastern Napa County (East
of Eden) or the opposite direction, Carneros in southwestern
Napa (and southeastern Sonoma) County.
'Carneros' means sheep in Spanish, and the area was used
primarily for grazing until about 20 years ago. Once considered
too cool to grow grapes, it turns out to be excellent for
Burgundian varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and growers
are increasingly finding sites that are perfect for Merlot
and a few other varietals.
I live in Napa, and I'll assume my guests are staying in
Napa (I have a small house to discourage too many visitors!),
where there are increasing numbers of hotel options, like
the new Hilton
Garden Inn and the new River
Terrace Inn next to Copia.
The Napa
River Inn is my favorite, however. It's right on the Napa
River within walking distance of many restaurants and other
attractions.
Many hotels include breakfast, but there are many places
where you can grab a bite. My favorites include ABC (Alexis
Baking Company) on Third Street and Sweetie
Pies in the Hatt Building in downtown Napa. Caffe
Cicero on First starts serving breakfast at 8 a.m., with
a brunch after 9 a.m. on weekends.
Since I've written about Eastern Napa County before, let's
spend the day to the largely undiscovered west, Carneros.
Soon, Carneros will get its first hotel, the Carneros Inn
(707 299-4900 or www.thecarnerosinn.com).
It will have a good place for breakfast and lunch, though
Byzantine Napa County laws will restrict its regular restaurant
to hotel guests.
Fortified with breakfast, a great first stop is visiting
the incredible di
Rosa art preserve off highway 12-121 in Carneros. I can
spend hours investigating this amazing collection of contemporary
art. You need reservations (707-226-5991) and there are all
sorts of tours and other deals, so check first.
After that, it will be time for a glass of wine, and one
of my favorite places for my favorite wine is the magnificent
faux chateau of Domaine
Carneros. The building is based on the home of the Taittenger
family of Champagne, who own the winery. Be careful, however;
this is a treacherous road where accidents occur daily.
If the weather is nice, I always sit on the patio and enjoy
the sparkling wine, some of the best made anywhere. The winery
also serves some nibbles, and its new still wines are excellent,
too. 1240 Duhig Rd. (707) 257-0101
I enjoy visiting a number of other wineries in Carneros,
but most aren't open to the public without reservations. One
that is, Madonna
Estate is a friendly, low-key winery just up the road
at the Old Sonoma Road turnoff. It's one of the few wineries
that grows its grapes without irrigation (dry farmed),and
makes a variety of nice wines even if the setting isn't very
fancy. Don't be put off by the tour busses that sometimes
stop but visit when there aren't any in the lot to avoid the
crowds. 5400 Old Sonoma Rd. (707) 255-8864
While we're there, we can continue up old Sonoma Road, and
turn left on Dealy Lane to head up bucolic Carneros Valley.
Carneros
Creek Winery was a pioneer in Pinot Noir, and still makes
some of the best. 1285 Dealy Lane, (707) 253-9463
Another favorite spot is Artesa
Winery, the dramatic winery owned by the Codorniu wine
empire of Spain.
A pyramid that almost disappears into its hilltop site, it's
one of the most attractive winery buildings in Napa County.
The winery once specialized in sparkling wine, but now focuses
on still wines and produces a variety of excellent offerings
from vineyards all over wine country. I love its views, its
wines and its museum featuring the Carneros region. 1345 Henry
Rd. (707) 224-1668.
I often follow the road to its end far up in Carneros Valley.
Much of the land is owned by Daryl Sattui, who owns a tremendously
popular winery in St. Helena, the only one with a deli in
Napa Valley. Daryl is leaving much of the property in its
natural and grazing state, though it would be great for growing
more vines, too.
One of the most interesting wineries in all Napa Valley is
Truchard
Vineyards at 3234 Old Sonoma Rd. (707) 253-7153. Truchard
makes excellent Merlot and other unexpected varieties from
the location in hills north of north of highway 12 that are
just a little warmer than the part of the Carneros Region
south of highway 12, but still cool enough to prove the comment:
"The best wines come from regions where the grapes can
just ripen fully."
By now, you should be hungry. The only place now open in
Napa's side of Carneros is Moore's Landing at the end of Cuttings
Wharf Road, but it's a great place to eat in any case. You
head south at the sign that points to Napa River Resorts.
There aren't any resorts there, but way at the end is the
funky restaurant on the surprisingly large river. You can
enjoy your modest but tasty meal on the patio in good weather,
or inside at other times. Check to make sure they're open,
however, since the schedule sometimes changes. (707-253-2439)
There's also a pier and launching ramp at Moore's Landing,
and sometimes you'll spy one of the mini cruise ships that
come up the river. The Safari Quest holds 21 passengers in
luxury (Think private yacht) and continues up to downtown
Napa, while the 84-passenger Spirit of Discovery can't go
much farther than Moore's.
There's an unexpected marina just down the river from Moore's,
but you have to backtrack to get there. I often follow the
road to its end at a wildlife preserve to walk off lunch.
The area seems more like Louisiana than Napa, with grand and
run-down homes clustered behind a levee that contains the
Napa River.
The other wineries in Carneros require appointments to visit.
I especially like Acacia,
which also supports a blind for viewing ducks and other wildfowl.
Acacia is one of few wineries in California that offers its
own still wine, sparkling wine and brandy, though you can't
taste the latter and they make little sparkler. The main emphasis
is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Carneros, however. It's
a good place for a picnic. Acacia Winery, 2750 Las Amigas
Rd. Phone: (707) 226-9991 and appointments are required.
Bouchaine
Vineyards offers tasting at 1075 Buchli Station Rd. Phone:
(800) 654-9463 or (707) 252-9065.
Pinot Noir specialist Saintsbury
requires appointments at 1500 Los Carneros Ave. (707) 252-0592
,
Etude Wines on Cuttings Wharf Road has taken over the old
RMS Brandy facility, and will eventually be open to the public
for tasting. (707) 257-5300.
Ceja Vineyards is sometimes open for tasting. It's also a
favorite. Amelia and Pedro are some of the nicest vintners
you'll ever meet and the wines are excellent. Call to see
if you can visit. 877-633-3954 or 707-255-3954.
An alternate afternoon (or morning) might be spent at Copia.
Make sure you sign up for a talk or class to get the full
enjoyment, however. A garden tour is a must.
By now, it's time for a nap to get ready for a big evening.
Let's hope you've made reservations for dinner. There are
many choices in downtown Napa, including fancy Julia's
Kitchen at Copia.
My favorites, however, are sophisticated French bistro Angèle
in the Hatt Building and friendly Sicilian Belle
Arti on the Napa Creek next to the Napa Valley Opera House.
With luck, there's a performance at the Opera
House, but there are many other possibilities downtown,
too. The nearby Café Society has performances, too,
as well as other special nights like French conversation,
and always wine and desserts as well as coffee.
Before dinner, I like a glass of wine at ZuZu,
which is also good after dinner, or can even be a light dinner
with its excellent tapas. Uva
has music midweek, and Downtown
Joe's rocks on weekends.
After dinner, many people simply have a glass of wine and
retire to their rooms after a busy day, however.
Read More Perfect
Days in Napa Valley
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