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A Perfect Day in Napa Valley

By Jim White

You have one day to spend In Napa Valley. You are coming north from the Bay-area and want to cram in food, wine, the Good Life, and some terrific scenery.

The big hand is on Mickey's ear and the little hand is on his tail; it is 8 am and you are just leaving Mill Valley, Oakland, or even Union Square in the city.

9 am
You land in Yountville and have a Sunday-like breakfast at Gordon's. Everything is homemade. The buns, pastries and coffee cake are worth the pit-stop; the eggs, pancakes and baby-flake oatmeal are the foods of which legends, if not reputations, are made.

10 am
The Robert Mondavi Winery still offers the valley's most comprehensive overview of winemaking. The one-hour tours, which depart on the hour from the central courtyard can - and should - be booked ahead. Each tour ends with a modest fillip of wine and a complementary food pairing.

11.15 am
Head north on Highway 29, stopping at Cakebread for some mighty fine wine tasting, OR at Niebaum-Coppola for a visit to the most perfectly merchandised wine tasting room in the valley. Be sure to see the Tucker car on the second floor - featured in Coppola's film, Tucker. Peer in the car window and check out the dashboard and remind yourself that this car is nearly 55 years old - and yet it looks futuristic, even today!

12.30 pm
Get back in your car and continue heading north. You have a modest lunch at either Cantinetta at Tra Vigne, OR you order the ahi tuna sandwich at Taylor's Refresher across the street. If you dine at Cantinetta, be sure to have a glass of wine that you can't find back home; if you eat at Taylor's Refresher, order the espresso bean milkshake, period.

1.30 pm
Head north on Highway 29, crossing the bridge into the tiny hamlet of St. Helena (population 6,000). Park anywhere (lots of spaces for two hours of free parking) and be prepared to walk the two-block length of Main Street. Tourist highlights include: Fideaux, my favorite pet shop in the Bay-area, filled with novel treats for Tabby and Rover, Patina for its selection of estate jewelry, Cricket for women's clothing, Goodman's for the largest selection of Hawaiian shirts in the Bay-area, and Keller's Market, for the best selection of farmstead cheeses in the Bay-area and home of the ilovenapa.com wine center - the only place in the valley where you will find a selection of the under-the-radar, small-production wines that we have discovered and offer on line.

3 pm
If you have sufficient time, head north a few more blocks and visit Beringer's heritage winery. Depending on the season, there are special tours, or just visit the tasting room.

Get back in your car; head south to Pope Street and turn left, or east. Go to the famed Silverado Trail. Turn right. Pick out a few of your favorite wineries to visit as you head south. I love ZD for the Cab, Chard and Pinot Noir; or head further south and make a sweep of Stag's Leap District. Of particular merit here are Pine Ridge and Clos du Val, whose wines I have been collecting for years.

If you are planning a one-day tour that includes dinners in the valley, head back north to Yountville and dine at Bistro Jeanty, Bouchon, Mustards Grill or Brix - all personal favorites for different dishes (See my individual Personal Favorite write-ups elsewhere on this site. Each has a special dish that merits the visit and which should NOT be missed.)

If you must be back to San Francisco, or points south, for dinner, plan to return via the Carneros/101/Golden Gate Bridge and stop for a late afternoon tipple of sparkling wine at Domaine Carneros, Taittinger's facility. Sitting on the terrace, overlooking the vineyards, sipping the wine and (perhaps) noshing on caviar - ahh! No better way to bring the curtain down on your one-day excursion to Napa Valley.

On your return to San Francisco… if you are feeling peckish around Mill Valley, get off Highway 101 at the last exit before the city (Highway 1/Stinson Beach) and stop at the Buckeye Roadhouse for the best pulled pork sandwich that you have ever had (tied with the one served at Mustards Grill). (If you swear that you have had a better one anywhere in the United States… or on planet Earth, for that matter… you are completely delusional and should not be allowed to visit Napa Valley on your own.)
Alternate plan: stop at Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa town and dine at one of my all-time favorite restaurants in the valley. Everyone is made to feel welcome, the food is fabulous and there are dishes that no one does as well - see my personal favorites on the Bistro Don Giovanni Index Card under the Best of Napa Valley section, or searchable through the Jim's Personal Favorites list.

Good luck. Good travels. Good eatin' and drinkin'!

About the writer:

Jim White, is former food editor and restaurant critic for one of the largest newspapers in North America.

Jim has written cookbooks, produced radio and TV programs about food and wine and has written for numerous magazines.

As a consultant to the food and beverage industry, he has developed, branded, and brought to market more than 4,000 premium products.

Jim moved to Napa Valley because he wanted to. His passion for the valley, the people and the wines comes through in his dispatches called "Postcard from Napa Valley."

Jim's observations about wines he's tasted, or events that he's attended, may be useful to help you plan your visit here. Use our website search engine to find if he's written about a wine, a restaurant or an event of interest to you.

Contact Jim at jim@ilovenapa.com

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