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No, not stall food, as in the stuff purchased outdoors at the farmer’s
market. We’re talking TALL food, the built-up, bulked-up, spires
of food that were all the rage at trendoid restaurants in the late 80s.
We thought the fashion had mostly gone away and then we wandered into
Brix and sampled the Tower of Tuna Tartare, an eye-catching, tongue-clacking
presentation. Guests to the restaurant will now have to order TWO must-have
appetizers, the Grilled Moroccan-spiced Shrimp with Fresh herb Salad
and this tower of tuna, as original and tasty as it is attractive.
The dish is the creation of sous-chef Chris Kobayashi who has created
a vertical, cylinder-shaped column of colors, tastes and textures; a
sort of mixed meal media: chopped fresh ahi tuna (sashimi grade), crunchy
bits of tempura crisps, cubits of avocado and cucumber and a crown of
crunchy tobiko (the orange-colored eggs of the flying fish) comprise
the tower. The dish is infused with a truffle vinaigrette that one wants
to inhale as much as ingest.
This dish vies with Brix’ Grilled Moroccan-spiced shrimp appetizer
for our award, Best New Appetizer in Napa Valley, 2003, but as we already
bestowed this title upon the shrimp dish, we’ve had to be as inventive
as sous-chef Kobayashi; hence an award for Best Tall Food in Napa Valley.
Make no mistake – both dishes are worth a detour if you’re
within 20 miles of the restaurant.
Brix
Restaurant and Wine Shop, 7377 St. Helena Highway, Yountville.
707-944-2749. |
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