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Since 1937, the good citizens of Marin have been motoring past, and
stopping at, the legendary Buckeye Roadhouse.
There are roadhouses in the US that live on a reputation – but
just don’t live up to it. Witness many of the places that Jane
and Michael Stern so earnestly try to keep in the public mind in their
wonderful magazine food columns and treasured books about the back road
diners of America.
And then there are places that not only live up to their reputation
– but exceed it. The Buckeye Roadhouse is one such eatery.
We love the cozy bar on the north side of this restaurant, which is
just of Highway 101 at the Stinson Beach exit, ten minutes north of
San Francisco; it has a food feng shui that makes the fare taste that
much better, nudging the perfect, 100-point, Slow-Cooked, Spicy Pork
Sandwich into the 101-point range.
Florida-inspired, this exceptional dish is made with mustard instead
of ketchup and has an infusion of several vinegars and dry-rubbed chili
that give it vital, must-go-back-for-another-bite appeal.
Equally as compelling is Beef Brisket on Grilled Garlic Toast. One is
presented a log of perfectly braised brisket that is large enough to
feed everyone in Marin and still have a bit leftover for one lucky soul
to have seconds.
The brisket is ladled with a sauce that is half barbecue sauce from
the pulled pork sandwich and half natural jus from the beef; the beef
sits atop a huge slice of Panorama sourdough that has been brushed with
a garlicky spread and toasted; this may be the best tasting slice of
bread you will ever have in the Bay-area.
The brisket is napped with a creamy horseradish sauce that knifes through
the richness of the dish; and the dish’s texture climaxes with
a mound of mashed potatoes that are so tasty, yet so light, that they
that make one think that this must be what it is like to eat clouds.
Buckeye Roadhouse, 15 Shoreline Hwy, Mill Valley, CA
Reservations suggested. 415-331-2600 |
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