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We have been enjoying the sublimely seared ahi tuna sashimi here for nearly six years. While the presentation has changed slightly over time, and the accompanying garnish has had its hem lifted and lowered a few times, the dish has always remained in style and is still worth a long-distance detour.
Eight domino-like rectangles of sweet ahi sashimi are placed on their edges, arranged in a Zen-like pattern that looks as if it has been modeled on the rock garden at Kyoto. Brushed with chopped nori and sesame seeds, the tuna is then so lightly seared that it might more accurately be described as "varnished with heat." There is almost a "veneer of sear" on the edges of this tuna. Nothing more.
The cucumber salad is refreshing; pickled ginger and wasabi may be commonplace but nothing else about this dish is. The sashimi-grade tuna is served on a beautiful hand-made, hand-glazed platter, itself worthy of notie. We can't think of a better raw fish starter in all of Napa Valley.
Brix Restaurant and Wine Shop, 7377 St. Helena Highway, Yountville. (Just south of Mustards Grill on Highway 29.) 707-944-2749.
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