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 Gerry and Arlene Phelan are magicians. Yes, they're winemakers, but they're magicians, too. They make wine that just seems to disappear before your eyes.
About a dozen years ago, the couple planted a Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard on the steep, tipped volcanic, western slope of Mt. George in the southeastern corner of Napa Valley. Facing west, the vines get long, late afternoon, sunny heat and because they're planted above 1,100 feet, they get cool breezes off the bay, reducing mildew and other viticultural problems. In short, they produce fabulous fruit.
How fabulous? Well, for eight years running, the wine disappeared into two of Napa Valley's highly revered Cabernets, one produced by Silver Oak, the other by Clos du Val. Got the picture?
"About four years ago, we decided that if our fruit was good enough for these respected houses, perhaps we should keep the grapes and make our own wine," recounts Gerry, standing on the precipice of a block of 12-year-old vines. Across the hills, on another slope, we see the acclaimed vineyards of Jarvis, another Napa Valley magician.
Once the decision was made, Arlene shouldered vineyard manager responsibilities; she oversees what happens in the field, speaks Spanish to field workers who are hired to perform vineyard tasks. All the while, she and Gerry looked for a consulting winemaker 'with credentials.'
They not only acquired one with credentials — they got one with the magic touch. Everything Bob Egelhoff touches quickly disappears into the marketplace. His other clients at present include David Arthur, Axios, Amizetta and Richard Partridge.
Over the last several years, Arlene and Gerry have been busy getting permits, meeting architects and drawing up blueprints for a small, but stunning, cave that was bored out of their steep hillside. The natural berm will keep the cave/aging facility at a constant 57 F degrees. "It's a winemaker's dream cave," Egelhoff told Gerry.
Aged 24 months in French oak, the 2000 Phelan Vineyard Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon is Gerry, Arlene and Bob's first-ever release.
The small mountain vineyard produced 740 cases of premium-quality
wine and if the vines' track record and Egelhoff's past performance
are any indication of future success, Phelan Vineyard Cab will
probably be like the proverbial rabbit — it'll disappear
before your very eyes. You’ll find it – maybe –
in Napa Valley’s high-end, premium wine stores.
2000 Phelan Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
This tight, compressed wine, has dark, ripe fruit scents; upon tasting, they amplify, skipping across the palate as a flat stone does when hurled side-arm over a pond. How curious. How delicious.
The fruit and flavors lift, drop, lift drop. First there's dark fruit, then a dip, then milk chocolate comes rushing across the palate, then there's a dip, then plum flavors erupt, then there's a dip, then a finish of rhubarb and forest. All in one simple sip. This suggests that there is much to experience in a glass, but one must be patient and let the wine evolve over time. But even now, at this early stage, it exhibits elegance, balance and finesse.
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ilovenapa.com Rating:
$75 |
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