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 America, get down on your knees and thank "the roommate."
For without "the roommate," we would not be tasting, sipping, joyously drinking Dave Phinney's exceptional wines, which are bottled under the brand Orin Swift.
"I was at the University of Arizona in Tucson, and one semester went abroad for field study to Florence, Italy," says now 30-year-old winemaker Dave Phinney.
"My roommate's family was in the wine business in Santa Rosa and he introduced me to wine in Italy. Big time. We drank our way through the region. It opened my eyes to another life, another career. I returned to America at the age of 20 and turned my back on ever becoming a lawyer."
From rehearsed lines and purple drapes… to replanted vines and purple grapes. But not without hard work. "My first wine-related job was in the agricultural department of a university where we planted 15 varieties of grapes and I wrote research papers on rootstocks and clones. I also worked in a wine shop to get experience."
Aware that Napa Valley was the center of the wine universe in America, Phinney sent off resumes to 150 wineries, asking for employment. Anything. In the field, in the tasting rooms. It didn't matter.
"I only got one reply. It was from Mondavi."
Phinney came north, worked the crush at Mondavi's Carneros facility, then worked at Opus One, then moved on to Whitehall Lane. "That's where I really learned the craft of making wine; winemaker Dean Sylvester taught me most of what I know."
And boy, did this kid learn fast! His Sauvignon Blanc is one of the best in California, exhibiting fresh, crisp delicious flavors. Stainless-steel fermented with only 10 percent seeing new oak, this is the closest thing we've seen to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Vibrant, original, delicious.
Phinney's proprietary blend, called The Prisoner, combines five varieties and makes you whack the front of your head with the flat of your hand, proclaiming, "What was I thinking when I paid twice as much for wines not as good?"
You are not going to believe that this wine is only $26!! It
tastes like a $40 blend. Easily. Maybe $50.
We asked Phinney about his not-hyphenated, brand name, Orin Swift. How'd he get it, what does it mean?
"Orin is my dad's middle name and Swift is my mom's maiden name. It just seemed the right thing to do, to name my wines after them."
Phinney's not only got talent as a winemaker, he's obviously a born softie, too.
We tasted through several vintages of Orin Swift, both whites
and reds, and there is a discernable DNA that is common to all
the wines; it is the fingerprint of winemaker Phinney. Every
one of his wines is focused, elegant and refined, yet each has
a spicy, tightly wound core. Orin Swift wines have attitude,
yet are completely balanced. Like the winemaker himself.
2002 Orin Swift Sauvignon Blanc
The aromas lift from the just-opened bottle; you do not
have to wait to pour to be lifted away. On the sniff,
there is a ton of melon and peach, followed by grassy
notes, like the greenest of summer leaves. The hint of
peach is likely due to the addition of a minute amount
of Semillon. In the mouth, there is a lovely weight, a
sensual oiliness, uncommon in many local white wines.
The finish goes on and on, with minor rifts of melon and
peach. This is a wine you can truly love. Better yet -
afford! The fruit comes off the famed Toffanelli Vineyard,
just behind Clos Pegase, in Calistoga. The vines are head-trained
and dry farmed. Phinney picks two tons of fruit per acre.
About $17. |
ilovenapa.com Rating:
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2001 Orin Swift, The Prisoner.
A proprietary blend of Zinfandel (for overall weight and spice), Syrah (for cherry notes and depth of flavor), Charbono (for blueberry top notes), Cabernet (for plum flavors) and Petite Sirah (for inky color and spice). On the nose, hints of red fruit. There is elegance and a refined quality to the front and back of this wine; call it Zin with a pedigree. The edges of traditional Zin have been filed off, the fruit polished by the addition of other grapes.
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ilovenapa.com Rating:
$26 |
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