Call us contrarians at ilovenapa.com because we seem to be heading
up a river that has been motored downstream by big boats driven
by Robert Parker Jr. and Wine Spectator. And they've left quite
a wake for us to navigate.
We respect these wine folks immensely, we love their palates
for the most part and often buy wines they suggest. But now
that we are also in the 100-point rating game, we find things
about the rating system worth sharing.
1. When wine writers taste dozens of wines blind at a time,
the ones that naturally stand out, head and shoulders above
others, and get the high scores are the higher alcohol, hotter,
more heavily wooded wines. That's just the way it works when
you taste lots of wines in successive sip 'n spit motion.
(To minimize this effect, when we're rating for ilovenapa.com,
we only taste a few wines from a single winemaker at a time.
We're looking for pretty wines, balanced wines, delicious
wines, not high alcohol, over-oaked monsters.)
2. Do we think we are onto something? I can only relate this
Truth: When I am with wine merchants or local wine writer
friends, they confide that THEY DO NOT
ENJOY THE OVER-OAKED, HIGH ALCOHOL WINES THAT THEY SELL, ORWRITE
ABOUT! They tell me they prefer gentle wines, food-friendly
wines - the kind of wines that we praise at ilovenapa.com.
When we talk in private with some of the most respected winemakers
in our valley and ask why they impart so much wood to their
fruited whites like Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc, they reply
that "that is what we've taught the American public to
drink; they expect a lot of wood in the wine."
We say, Nonsense. We believe it is time to stand up for balanced
wine, food-friendly wine. In short, it is time to un-learn
the American public.
If winemakers feel that they've taught the public to seek
out and drink highly extracted, over-oaked wines, how about
setting a new standard for the 2000's - let's show the public
how to appreciate food-friendly wines that aren't so over-oaked
they taste like they've passed through the kidneys of a beaver!
3. There is a component to the accepted 100-point rating
system that says Price Doesn't Matter. Wines are supposed
to be rated on their own merit, according to flavor, mouthfeel
and length, without consideration of price. We think this
is utter nonsense. Price DOES matter. When we find an exceptionally
rich, pretty wine that costs significantly less than wines
of lesser quality, we factor this into the wine's final score.
The 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon from Farella-Park is a perfect
example. The fruit comes from a 26-acre parcel in southern
Napa Valley in an area that winemakers want to have recognized
one day as the Coombsville Appellation.
The grower of this fruit is Frank Farella, a respected lawyer
who is on the Board of Directors of Robert Mondavi Winery.
He had the foresight to buy the land in 1976, planted it in
1980, and urged his son to become, in the Italian tradition,
part of the winemaking family.
Tom Farella listened. He went off to get his beverage bona
fides; he started out with the fledgling Neyers in 1980, moved
on to Preston in Dry Creek, Sonoma, where he worked up from
assistant to head winemaker; he worked harvests in Burgundy
for Domaine Jacques Prieur and in the Willamette Valley, OR,
for Ponzi and Beaux Frères then came home to make wine
for his family and also, now for the Elkes (whose lovely Pinot
Noir we represent).
Most of the Cabernet for this wine has been, and still is,
sold to Mondavi for its Reserve blend (and we understand that
some may squeak into Opus One
) but Tom and his Frank
decided to bottle a bit for themselves under their own label.
Their Cab has a lovely nose, largely black currant. On the
palate, the black currant is so evident that it is like biting
into a Rowntree black currant wine gum, (you have to go to
Canada to experience this flavor reference
). This is
a fabulous achievement; the wine has a generous viscosity
and a suitably long finish. We were all set to give the wine
a 90-point score when we were told: "It's $28 a bottle."
Twenty-eight dollars? That's all? For us, this nudged the
wine into the 91-point realm. Because PRICE DOES MATTER.
If this were a $125 Cabernet, we might actually score it
89 points because, at this price, compared to similarly priced
wines, it might be experienced as a less substantial wine.
But as a wine that competes with the quality of everyday-drinking,
everyday-priced wines - it's actually a GREAT wine and a GREAT
bargain!
And we love what Tom has produced with his family's Sauvignon
Blanc fruit; a lyrically light, perfectly refreshing not-wooded
wine that has the hallmarks of a high altitude S.B. from Italy.
Tom is doing a great job to "unlearn the public"
and is proving that you don't need a cord of wood in every
bottle to make a high-impact, high-scoring wine.
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1999 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
100% estate fruit, 100% Cab Sauvignon. A lovely black
currant nose wafts from the glass; on the palate, the
black currant flavors are intense, like biting into
a Rowntree black currant wine gum, (sorry, you have
to go to Canada to experience this flavor reference
).
A fabulous achievement; the wine has a generous viscosity
and a suitably long finish. And only $28!! Only 300
cases produced.
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ilovenapa.com Rating:
$28 |
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